{"id":37,"date":"2010-04-18T23:06:00","date_gmt":"2010-04-18T23:06:00","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/catalin.francu.com\/blog\/?p=37"},"modified":"2010-04-18T23:06:00","modified_gmt":"2010-04-18T23:06:00","slug":"salta","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/catalin.francu.com\/blog\/2010\/04\/salta\/","title":{"rendered":"Salta"},"content":{"rendered":"

Suntem \u00een Salta<\/a> de vreo dou\u0103 zile. Salta este un ora\u0219 de vreo 400.000 de locuitori la 1.100m altitudine, la poalele Anzilor. E frumu\u0219el, mare \u0219i nu prea, cu o pia\u021b\u0103 mare \u00een centru \u0219i multe terase. \u0218i vremea \u021bine cu noi. Fiind aproape de tropice, aici au fost mereu peste 25 de grade ziua, mult mai bine dec\u00e2t \u00een Buenos Aires. Seara e o pl\u0103cere s\u0103 stai la o beric\u0103, de\u0219i localnicii sunt destul de insisten\u021bi, vin mereu la masa ta s\u0103-\u021bi v\u00e2nd\u0103 ceva (de la un artist chiar am cump\u0103rat ceva, c\u0103 \u0219tia s\u0103-\u021bi spun\u0103 o poveste ca s\u0103-\u0219i v\u00e2nd\u0103 marfa). \u00cen rest, ne-au oferit serviciile vreo \u0219ase lustragii de pantofi \u0219i mul\u021bi al\u021bi v\u00e2nz\u0103tori de nimicuri frumoase, din cele pe care le pui pe un raft \u0219i pe urm\u0103 le bomb\u0103ni c\u00e2nd \u0219tergi praful.<\/p>\n

Ieri am f\u0103cut o excursie lung\u0103 de tot. Ne-am trezit la 04:45, ca s\u0103 fim la 05:50 la locul de \u00eent\u00e2lnire. Ne g\u00e2ndeam c\u0103 tot ora\u0219ul o s\u0103 doarm\u0103, dar aiurea, ora\u0219ul \u00eenc\u0103 nici nu se culcase. Erau str\u0103zile luminate \u0219i pline de lume. Autobuzul care ne-a luat era de fapt un fel de camion de safari<\/a>, cu trape deasupra scaunelor, pe care le-am folosit din plin. Era un Mercedes modificat de un inginer german care a venit la Salta \u0219i i-a pl\u0103cut a\u0219a de mult, c\u0103 n-a mai plecat. Primul drum a fost c\u0103tre San Antonio de los Cobres<\/a> (\u201eal cuprului\u201d), un ora\u0219 minier la 3.750m altitudine. Drumul a fost foarte interesant, printre mun\u021bi. Pe acela\u0219i traseu exist\u0103 \u0219i o linie de tren<\/a> foarte pitoreasc\u0103, un fel de moc\u0103ni\u021b\u0103 de-a lor. Din p\u0103cate, nu ne-am \u00eent\u00e2lnit cu trenul, pentru c\u0103 este unul singur pe zi \u0219i noi am plecat \u00eenaintea lui. Dar i-am v\u0103zut efectele: am oprit \u00eentr-o gar\u0103 pe traseu unde pu\u021binii localnici \u00ee\u0219i desf\u0103ceau tarabele cu obiecte artizanale \u00een a\u0219teptarea turi\u0219tilor.<\/p>\n

\u00cen San Antonio, ghidul ne-a rugat s\u0103 nu d\u0103m bani copiilor, ca s\u0103 nu-i obi\u0219nuim s\u0103 fug\u0103 de la \u0219coal\u0103 ca s\u0103 vin\u0103 la cer\u0219it. Mai ales, ne-a rugat s\u0103 nu le d\u0103m dulciuri, pentru c\u0103 ora\u0219ul are 5.000 de locuitori, dar un singur dentist. C\u00e2nd am oprit acolo vreun sfert de or\u0103, am fost pur \u0219i simplu asalta\u021bi de femei \u0219i copii care voiau s\u0103 ne v\u00e2nd\u0103 lucruri, de obicei din l\u00e2n\u0103 de lam\u0103 sau de alpaca: m\u0103nu\u0219i, ciorapi, c\u0103ciuli sau \u00eempletituri de juc\u0103rie. N-am rezistat, am luat \u0219i noi c\u00e2te ceva (chiar erau frumoase).<\/p>\n

Dup\u0103 San Antonio, ne-am oprit la un c\u0103tun numit El Moj\u00f3n (\u201epiatra de hotar\u201d) s\u0103 lu\u0103m pr\u00e2nzul. El Moj\u00f3n este, mai degrab\u0103, locuin\u021ba unei familii care st\u0103 acolo de 60 de ani. Au tot soiul de acareturi, inclusiv o c\u0103mar\u0103 f\u0103cut\u0103 din sare, care reflect\u0103 razele solare \u0219i \u021bine interiorul rece. \u0218i-au f\u0103cut \u0219i biseric\u0103, dar preotul vine s\u0103 slujeasc\u0103 o singur\u0103 dat\u0103 pe an \u0219i atunci fac tot ce au de f\u0103cut, nun\u021bi, \u00eemp\u0103rt\u0103\u0219anii \u0219i celelalte. \u00cen mijlocul b\u0103t\u0103turii era un glob uria\u0219 f\u0103cut din s\u00e2rme, de care st\u0103tea legat un telefon celular (probabil singurul mod de a ob\u021bine un semnal \u00een lipsa semnalului). Iar apa \u0219i m\u00e2ncarea se puteau \u00eenc\u0103lzi, la nevoie, \u00een focarul unei parabole uria\u0219\u0103 de metal. \u00cen aceste condi\u021bii, totu\u0219i, am m\u00e2ncat pe cinste, ni\u0219te empanadas<\/a> cu carne de capr\u0103 \u0219i ni\u0219te chiftele de lam\u0103 cu orez.<\/p>\n

Dup\u0103 pr\u00e2nz, am luat-o spre nord prin podi\u0219ul andin \u0219i am ajuns la o salin\u0103 de suprafa\u021b\u0103<\/a>. Am mai v\u0103zut eu a\u0219a ceva, dar asta era mare, nene, peste 200 km\u00b2<\/a>. Te uitai \u00een toate direc\u021biile \u0219i vedeai numai sare. \u0218i era o lumin\u0103, exact ca pe z\u0103pad\u0103. Puteai s\u0103 cumperi \u0219i obiecte artizanale, evident f\u0103cute din sare, ceea ce am \u0219i f\u0103cut. R\u0103m\u00e2ne s\u0103 vedem dac\u0103 o s\u0103 le priasc\u0103 \u00een Rom\u00e2nia, unde umezeala e alta (aici \u00een podi\u0219 plou\u0103 5cm de ap\u0103 pe an).<\/p>\n

Pe drumul spre cas\u0103, am ajuns la altitudinea maxim\u0103 de 4170m. A\u0219a am f\u0103cut eu dou\u0103 lucruri noi \u0219i nemaipomenite \u00eentr-o zi: am urcat prima oar\u0103 peste 4.000m \u0219i am m\u00e2ncat carne de lam\u0103, tot pentru prima oar\u0103, dar sper c\u0103 nu \u0219i ultima, pentru c\u0103 a fost foarte bun\u0103, cam ca oaia, a\u0219a.<\/p>\n

Am \u00eencheiat cu o cobor\u00e2re de 2000m pe un drum de 22km (n-am mai pomenit pant\u0103 de 9% care s\u0103 dureze at\u00e2t) \u0219i o mic\u0103 oprire \u00een Jujuy, de unde am mai cump\u0103rat c\u00e2teva prostii, c\u0103 deh, turi\u0219ti suntem.<\/p>\n

M\u00e2ine iar ne trezim devreme, ne-a pl\u0103cut a\u0219a de mult c\u0103 mai vrem o dat\u0103, dar \u00een alt\u0103 parte.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Suntem \u00een Salta de vreo dou\u0103 zile. Salta este un ora\u0219 de vreo 400.000 de locuitori la 1.100m altitudine, la poalele Anzilor. E frumu\u0219el, mare \u0219i nu prea, cu o pia\u021b\u0103 mare \u00een centru \u0219i multe terase. \u0218i vremea \u021bine cu noi. Fiind aproape de tropice, aici au fost mereu peste 25 de grade ziua, […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"site-sidebar-layout":"default","site-content-layout":"","ast-site-content-layout":"default","site-content-style":"default","site-sidebar-style":"default","ast-global-header-display":"","ast-banner-title-visibility":"","ast-main-header-display":"","ast-hfb-above-header-display":"","ast-hfb-below-header-display":"","ast-hfb-mobile-header-display":"","site-post-title":"","ast-breadcrumbs-content":"","ast-featured-img":"","footer-sml-layout":"","ast-disable-related-posts":"","theme-transparent-header-meta":"","adv-header-id-meta":"","stick-header-meta":"","header-above-stick-meta":"","header-main-stick-meta":"","header-below-stick-meta":"","astra-migrate-meta-layouts":"default","ast-page-background-enabled":"default","ast-page-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"ast-content-background-meta":{"desktop":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"tablet":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""},"mobile":{"background-color":"var(--ast-global-color-5)","background-image":"","background-repeat":"repeat","background-position":"center center","background-size":"auto","background-attachment":"scroll","background-type":"","background-media":"","overlay-type":"","overlay-color":"","overlay-opacity":"","overlay-gradient":""}},"footnotes":""},"categories":[1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-37","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-uncategorized"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/catalin.francu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/catalin.francu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/catalin.francu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/catalin.francu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/1"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/catalin.francu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=37"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/catalin.francu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/37\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/catalin.francu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=37"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/catalin.francu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=37"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/catalin.francu.com\/blog\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=37"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}